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Within the rapidly evolving landscape of professional cosmetics formulation, the demand for high-performance, non-irritating, and multifunctional ingredients is at an all-time high. Consumers and brands alike are shifting towards minimal yet highly efficient routines. Among the essential raw materials driving this transformation is PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate (CAS NO.: 86846-21-1), an exceptional self-emulsifying non-ionic surfactant, emulsifier, and emollient. Renowned for its superior ability to clear oil-based impurities while preserving the delicate skin barrier, this compound has become the industry gold standard for premium makeup removing formulations, including cleansing oils, balms, and emulsions.
PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate is a triester of glycerin, branched isostearic acid, and polyethylene glycol (PEG). The structure features a hydrophobic core of branched isostearic acid chains and a hydrophilic tail formed by 20 units of ethylene oxide (EO). This unique architecture provides a perfectly balanced Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance (HLB) value of approximately 10.0 to 11.0. This mid-range HLB makes it an ideal oil-in-water (O/W) emulsifier that is highly capable of forming spontaneous microemulsions when contact is made with water.
Unlike linear fatty acid esters, the branched C18 structure of isostearic acid inhibits crystallization, keeping the raw material liquid and exceptionally stable across a wide temperature range. In formulation, it acts as a coupling agent. When applied to dry skin, the hydrophobic lipid sections dissolve makeup, sebum, and sunscreen residues. Upon rinsing, the hydrophilic PEG-20 chains immediately wrap around these oil droplets, forming a fine, milky emulsion that washes away completely without leaving a greasy film or stripping the skin’s natural lipid barrier.
| Physicochemical Property | Standard Specification Value | Significance in Cosmetics Formulation |
|---|---|---|
| Chemical Name | PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate | International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) |
| CAS Number | 86846-21-1 | Global inventory registration registry identity |
| HLB Value | 10.0 - 11.5 | Balanced self-emulsification and rinse-off profile |
| Appearance (25°C) | Pale yellow transparent liquid to viscous paste | Easy handling, minimal odor, and low color interference |
| Acid Value (mg KOH/g) | ≤ 10.0 | High chemical stability and compatibility with skin pH |
| Moisture Content (%) | ≤ 1.0 | Prevents microbial activity and degradation of active formulations |
Heavy foundations, waterproof mascaras, and silicone-based sunscreens are designed to resist water. Removing them requires a surfactant with strong lipophilic affinity. PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate interacts directly with waxy and polymer residues, liquefying them instantly on contact. Because it is self-emulsifying, it does not require vigorous rubbing, mitigating the risk of mechanical skin irritation.
Many traditional anionic surfactants cleanse at the expense of skin barrier integrity, leading to elevated Trans-Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL). As a non-ionic agent, PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate does not disrupt the stratum corneum structure. It leaves behind an ultra-light, breathable moisturizing film that conditions the skin, making it highly suitable for dry, sensitive, or compromised skin types.
It displays remarkable chemical compatibility with a wide array of polar and non-polar cosmetic oils, including Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides (GTCC), mineral oils, synthetic esters, and natural plant oils (such as jojoba and sweet almond oils). It remains stable in formulations containing antioxidants, preservatives, and essential oils, providing formulators with vast creative flexibility.
For multinational cosmetic brands, ensuring the regulatory compliance of raw materials is vital. Our production processes for PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate (CAS 86846-21-1) strictly align with modern global regulations:
As a leading Chinese daily chemical manufacturer, Suzhou Yuantairun Chemical Co., Ltd. represents the standard of chemical manufacturing efficiency. Operating from the industrial chemical cluster of Suzhou, Jiangsu Province, we integrate state-of-the-art ethoxylation and esterification technology with localized cost structures. This strategic positioning offers global cosmetics buyers several key benefits:
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Role: Core Self-Emulsifying Agent & Emollient
Recommended Dosage: 10% - 15%
Formulated alongside Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (GTCC) and natural oils. Provides a clear, stable liquid system that completely emulsifies on contact with warm water, rinsing clean with zero greasy residue.
Role: Emulsifier & Texture Modifier
Recommended Dosage: 8% - 12%
Helps structure solid-to-oil melting balms. Improves spreadability and facilitates rapid, smooth phase transformation from balm to milk when rinsed, ensuring absolute user satisfaction.
Role: Super-fatting Agent & Gentle Surfactant
Recommended Dosage: 1% - 3%
Reduces irritation profiles in mild amino acid cleansers. Re-fatting properties ensure the skin maintains optimal moisture levels and does not feel dry or tight post-rinse.
Leveraging our wide range of anionic and nonionic surfactants such as SLES and APG, our formulations support heavy soil and oil removal across industrial and home laundry environments, offering deep cleaning action and controlled sudsing.
By utilizing advanced cationic systems like Cetrimonium Chloride alongside conditioning polymers, we support brands in creating hair care and fabric softeners that deposit uniformly, reduce static charge, and improve tactile softness.
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Tailored specifically to end-use environments such as hotels, barbershops, or high-end retail, supporting customized viscosities and packaging variants.
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Concentrated and regular-strength surfactant blends optimized for stain removal, color protection, fragrance longevity, and packaging design.
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Ideal for retail commercial settings, shopping malls, restaurants, and medical environments, featuring mild, skin-friendly active systems.
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